Khadoran Demolition Corps Complete

If you play Khador in Warmachine, eventually you ask yourself if you want to use Demolition Corps or Shocktroopers. Often you’ll field both, but I wanted my first Man-o-War unit to be Demo Corps, and I’ll tell you why.

Khador is slow. Slow slow slow. Oh sure, we have some SPD:6 infantry, like anybody else, but on average, we’re Spd: 5 or 6 – or in the case of our jacks, we’re Spd:4 almost exclusively. So if you’re gonna be slow, you want REACH. And what’s better than REACH? – REACH with BACKSWING (x2 attacks), so when you do get into combat, you’re gonna make an impression. And that’s the important difference Demo Corps have over Shocktroopers.

The Man-o-War units are important to Khador, and I’ve only just acquired this unit of DC after figuring this out. Khador needs light jacks. I was disappointed that MkII didn’t throw at least one light jack our way. Even an arc node would have been welcome. But the Man-o-War units fit the light jack bill. Five DC are in essence, 2 light jacks, and for 9pts, that’s about right.

Painting
These guys were painted using the following technique:
1 – Primed black
2 – Base coated with Vallejo Russian Uniform Green
3 – Highlight the green with GW Gretchin Green
4 – Red shoulder plating is GW Mechrite Red, highlighted with PP Khador Red Highlight
5 – Helmets are PP Menoth White Base, with highlights of white
6 – Paint brass parts as desired with Vallejo Brass
7 – Shoulder trim is Vallejo German Grey
7 – Done!

These guys look pretty kick ass on the table – there’s alot of military colour in use here, as well as more realistic, earthy pigments. Also, they can block LOS to the Butcher!

Man-o-War Demolition Corps
Points on the table: 9pts     Time to paint: 4hrs

Doom Reavers are Complete

doom-reaversDoom Reavers have always been an expensive unit, points wise, to put on the table. But with MkII, that’s been lessened – they’re a respectable PC:6, and FA:2 now. They used to be FA:1, and 100pts.


I finally got off me arse and painted these models, after buying them over 2 years ago. They’re decently detailed, so take a fair amount of time to paint, but I think I still did the 6 of them in under 10hrs – a long time for me – about 1.5hrs each guy.  I painted their red plate armour with GW Foundation paint – Mechrite Red – the best red paint I think I’ve ever used. It’s opaque, easily tinted to be deeper than out of the bottle (which has a bit of an orange hue to it). Did I mention it’s opaque? Not many reds are, which has kept me away from red army paint schemes, because I hate painting multiple coats to get a solid colour. I’ll do it with the ‘jacks, but not much else – I’ve got a thousand more guys to paint.


The centre core of green on their swords represents the glowing evil that they contain. The swords drive their users mad, and give them their berserking ability, the ability to make an attack against a model in melee if they destroy an opponent with a previous attack. As you can see, this could lead to alot of freakin’ free attacks if you plow into enough opponents, which is possible with their 2″ reach. But these extra attacks must be directed at friendlies if there are no remaining opponents around!


Love the models, love the fluff – can’t wait to try them out on the table.


Doom Reavers
Points on the table (MkII): 6     Time to paint: 9hrs 
Spd: 6  Str:7  Mat:7  Rat:7  Def:13  Arm:14  Cmd:7 – Abominations, Advance deployment, Fearless – Fellblades are magical with reach and Weapon Master

Khador War Dog is Complete

100_1264-khador-war-dog1The Khador War Dog is a very recent addition to Warmachine, but as soon as I saw it I knew I had to have one.

These guys are an FA:1 addition to a Khadoran caster, with SPD:7 – so, fast enough to keep up. For 18pts you’re not getting a powerhouse here, but a 10″ charging armoured Rottweiller that gets to automatically engage any model that gets too close to your caster. That’s a counter-charge… so he gets to do it in your opponent’s turn.

This is one of the first models I’ve filled gaps in the assembly in, with white glue, and it seems to have worked perfectly. I find green stuff is only really useful with larger gaps, and sometimes when you use it, you just can’t get a smooth blend down to the original model. White glue is better when a hairline gap needs filling – it actually pulls itself into the crack, and smoothing it out is easy with your finger. Just like caulking.

Khador War Dog – 18pts.   Time to paint – 1hr
Spd:7  Str: 7  Mat:6  Rat:1  Def:14  Arm:13